Choosing the right oil for your skin



7th September 2021

As a brand founded on the love of natural, organic plant derived oils, we know how oils can work across almost every skin situation and solve most skincare issues. We also know that oils can be applied wrongly, and the wrong oils can be applied and if either of these mistakes happen, then we almost certainly know that you won’t touch another oil again – no matter how stunning they can be for your skin.

For this reason, we formulate very carefully, examining the profile of each individual oil before combining in a blend. Balancing a combination of diverse, plant derived ingredients is the key to our award winning range. Sometimes an oil has such a skincare story to tell that we leave it alone, unblended, and sometimes an alchemic mix of several oils create the skincare magic. This balanced approach means that each product in our range is suitable for most skin types, whilst precisely and effectively targeting individual skin conditions

To understand that oils can be extremely effective for all skin types, including oily, breakout and congested skin, there are 3 aspects to consider.

  1. Determine Your Skin Type
  2. Understand the Comedogenic Scale
  3. Check the Lipid (fat) Profile of the oil

Having this information to hand will lead you to a selection of oils you can look out for in the Ingredient list of any product that are suitable and appropriate for your skins needs.

SKIN TYPES

It is generally agreed that there are 5 Skin Types, Normal, Dry, Oily, Sensitive and Combination. They are categorised as follows

FATTY ACID (LIPID) PROFILE

There are two main fatty acid players in oils that we need to understand when choosing our best oil. There are many, many different fatty acids in many different oils but these two determine the suitability of your facial oil – they are Linoleic (Omega 6) and Oleic acid (Omega 9).

The balance of these two, partnered with your skin type starts to give you the list of oils that can work with your skin and the list of products you can choose for your skin.

Linoleic Acid (Omega 6)

Skin types with a deficiency of Linoleic acid are oily skin, combination skin and sensitive/oily skin. Applying oils high in Linoleic acid work to balance sebum production, moisturise skin and replenish the essential barrier function.

Oleic Acid (Omega 9)

Skin types with a deficiency of Oleic acid are dry skin, combination skin and sensitive dry skin. Applying oils high in Oleic acid work towards soothing, calming and nourishing a damaged barrier function .

Normal skin types can work with oils and products that have a balanced fatty acid profile - balanced content of both LINOLEIC and OLEIC acid content. These oils continue to maintain the ‘normal/balanced’ status of this skin type as they feature both fatty acids.

COMEDOGENIC SCALE

We then need to check the COMEDOGENIC (clogging) scale of each of the oils- you can have oils rich in LINOLEIC that are high ‘pore cloggers’ and you can have oils rich in LINOLEIC that are very low ‘pore cloggers’ – the same with OLEIC acids, there are high and low comedogenic versions too

The full comedogenic scale is between 1-5. All oils have a rating along this scale. That being said – don’t immediately think that a higher comedogenic rating is always a bad thing.

The Barrier Function in our skin – the skins first line of defence is exactly as described A BARRIER – it needs to block any invasion of bacteria or environmental aggressors getting in and block any accelerated escape of hydration getting out. If it isn’t ‘blocking’ certain aspects, then it isn’t a barrier and it isn’t performing as it should, we need ‘good blocking/clogging’ and to avoid ‘bad blocking/clogging’ – it’s unfortunate we don’t have a better word!

Any oil with a comedogenic rating between 0 and 2 is considered very low/low. This rating ensures the Barrier Function is replenished and restored without congesting or blocking pores.

There are also beautiful oils and butters that should be kept for body only. The high comedogenic rating (3+) means they are effective, heavy duty moisturisers for body but too heavy for face.

In summary, establish your skin type, then search for the oils that work for your type (Linoleic rich/Oleic rich) or products with a combination of oils with a balanced profile to balance your skin type and then check them on the comedogenic scale to make sure they won’t congest your skin or cause any adverse side effect.

JANE'S RECOMMENDATIONS



BALANCED LINOLEIC & OLEIC profile and LOW COMEDOGENIC rated oils.

Good for all skin types.

RICH in LINOLEIC ACID with LOW COMEDOGENIC rated oils.

Good for oily skin, combination skin and sensitive/oily skin.


RICH in OLEIC ACID with LOW COMEDOGENIC rated oils.
Good for dry skin, combination skin and sensitive/dry skin.